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Gold leaf, Reimagined - The art of Vietnamese craft in motion

The Spring Summer 2026 collection of IHF Studio not only inherits the artisanal excellence that forms the very DNA of the house but also ventures into bold experimentation...

The Spring Summer 2026 collection of IHF Studio not only inherits the artisanal excellence that forms the very DNA of the house but also ventures into bold experimentation with the technique of gilding and gold-leafing on fabric. It is a symbolic leap, transposing the heritage of Vietnamese craftsmanship into a contemporary fashion idiom, binding tradition with the global stage in a newly forged aesthetic language.

The provenance and legacy of Kieu Ky

The art of gold-leafing for this collection has been realised in collaboration with master craftsmen from Kieu Ky village in Gia Lam, Hanoi, the sole guardian in Vietnam of the three-centuries-old tradition of gold and silver beating, first established in the Late Le dynasty and recognised today as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage. The craft was founded by Doctor Nguyen Quy Tri, who imparted the technique of gold-leafing to the villagers, shaping Kieu Ky into the cradle of this venerable Vietnamese art.

Nguyễn Văn Hiệp – A Gold Leaf Artisan from the Heritage Village of Kiêu Kỵ

The gilding process a journey of meticulous precision

 

To produce a single booklet of gold leaf, the artisan endures an exacting sequence of stages. Each booklet contains some five hundred sheets of handmade paper, upon each of which rests a fragment of gold scarcely larger than one square centimetre. Wrapped in resilient cloth, layered, and set upon a stone anvil, the gold is hammered ceaselessly with a specialised mallet until it blooms into an even, translucent film.

  • A skilled craftsman can beat just one chi of gold (3.75 grams) into more than one square metre of ultra-thin leaf. 

  • Completing one booklet requires nearly an hour of uninterrupted labour, amounting to some 4000 hammer strikes delivered with absolute precision. 

  • When handling the gold leaf, the artisan must work in a sealed, windless chamber, for even the faintest breath of air could send it adrift and compromise its perfection.

It is this uncompromising rigour that yields sheets of incomparable lightness yet durability, a virtuoso craft that modern technology still struggles to replicate. Through its collaboration with the Kieu Ky artisans, IHF Studio’s Spring Summer 2026 collection achieves a consummate refinement, while celebrating the splendour of Vietnamese gold-leafing on the international stage.

Application within the Spring Summer 2026 collection of IHF Studio

In this collection, IHF Studio has chosen to apply gold leaf to emblematic accessories such as handbags, with each ultra-fine sheet laid by hand, layer upon layer, across the surface of the material. The result is a multi-dimensional metallic lustre, at once fluid and resplendent. Every detail is crafted under stringent conditions to preserve durability and finesse, transforming each accessory into more than a decorative accent but a symbol of the confluence between Vietnamese heritage and modern design. The presence of Kieu Ky gold leaf in these accessories affirms both the stature and the audacity of Vietnamese craftsmanship, demonstrating its ability to shine on the world’s catwalks as a vital element of global haute couture.

The appearance of the Kieu Ky gilding technique in the Spring Summer 2026 collection does more than heighten the intricacy of each design: it asserts the enduring value of Vietnam’s artisanal heritage. From the meticulous touch of the village artisan to the brilliance of the international runway, the art of gold-leafing has transcended its traditional boundaries to become a universal creative language. It stands as a testament of pride and resolve to Vietnamese craftsmanship poised alongside the finest traditions of world fashion.

Explore HERISENCE - where gold meets fabric

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